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Workshop
June 1, 2007 By: American Salon Staff American Salon
Priti Organic Spa, New York City
Priti Sensual Pedicure: Pretty amazing is what clients have to say about this $75, 60-minute service that begins with a foot soak in a bath infused with organic rose oil and fresh rose petals. The pampering continues with an organic, exfoliating rose rub, a homemade natural callous peel and a custom-blended mask that's applied to the legs and feet before they are wrapped in hot towels. To top off the royal treatment, clients receive a luxurious massage with rose body cream before toenails are painted with nontoxic No Miss polish.
MAD ABOUT HUE
KIM VO ON THE GO
In this issue, Vo addresses blondes who have gone dark and now want to return to being blondes again.
Lindsay Lohan, Cameron Diaz, Britney Spears: After making a splash as blondes, these three Hollywood scenesters and countless others crossed over to the dark side to experience life as brunettes. The dark and sultry trend was hot probably because every woman knows there's something appealing about experimenting with her opposite look.
 Cameron Diaz has tried both blonde and brunette looks. |
Now it seems that many blondes are journeying back into the light. Instead of color correction, the process involves what is becoming known as color redirection. It's a phrase you'll hear time and again as the number of requests to go from dark back to light increases in popularity. Be advised that it's most effective when done over a period of time, which can take up to three weeks. Here's how it works:
Week one: Use a color remover to start eliminating the dark color. The gentlest of these is Elimin8 by Rusk, which reverses the oxidation color process by breaking the bonds of color molecules. Another good choice—and my personal favorite—is Clairol's Seventh Stage lightener. The strongest of the bunch is Effesol, which requires a fast and meticulously even application to get it right. You might want to warn your clients about the smell, which may remind them of rotten eggs or a wet dog. Fortunately, the smell is only temporary and means the stuff is doing what it's meant to do. During this first stage, the goal is to remove as much dark color as possible without causing any breakage. The stopping point will likely be when the hair takes on a neon orange shade. Dry it, then apply an ammonia-free vegetable color to tone down the brightness. I use Diacolor in dark blond or dark ash blond. Send your client on her way in this interim stage for at least several days.
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Week two: Repeat the same color-removal process, which will take the hair lighter still. At this point, your focus should be on achieving a natural-looking blond shade, so it's important to recreate a realistic root color using a level 7 or 8 shade.
Week three: This is when you get to play, adding highlights that will give your client's hair the dimension and movement she'll love.
Keep in mind that the dark-to-light process is not something that should be done in one day. It's time-and labor-intensive, and it can be extremely hard on the hair. If you can't discourage a customer from demanding instant results, let her know that she must devote at least eight hours in order to get what she wants.
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