Billy shares a few tried-and-true basics for creating a natural, beautiful look that simply oozes elegance.October 1, 2005 By: Billy B. American Salon
As makeup artists, I think it's in our nature to want to show our talent by using every trick we know to make a statement. I love a smokey eye and a pale lip, so I tend to focus on the eyes while keeping the mouth neutral. But sometimes the biggest statement we can make is showing restraint, especially with today's trend toward simple, beautiful makeup.
Recently I did Sharon Stone for the Princess Grace Foundation event in New York City. Working with Sharon is amazing. Not only is she considered one of the most beautiful women in the world, but she absolutely loves fashion, hair and makeup. She's truly a dream client. I wanted Sharon to look chic, classic and regal for this event. Here are my key points for creating this look.
SKIN The secret to beautiful skin is using only the concealer/foundation you need, allowing the skin to show through for a more natural feel, not loading it on to create a masked effect. After moisturizing the skin, spot conceal any problem areas with concealer/foundation. I like Kevyn Aucoin Skin Enhancer; it's a very opaque concealer, and you need only a tiny amount. Choose a shade closest to the skin tone and blend it out until it disappears.
BROWS Groom the eyebrows into a clean, defined shape, using a stiff-angled brush, and choose a color slightly lighter than the eyebrow itself. By using a softer color you won't make the eyebrow appear too dark or heavy. I like to use an eyeshadow in taupe, making sure it's warm in color and not too gray. If you prefer to use a pencil, choose the color the same way and be careful not to overdo it. Most pencils are kohl-based, and it's easy to apply too much, making the brow appear overdone. I personally think it's safer to use a powder shadow for mistake-proof application.
EYES Use a natural-tone eyeshadow, sweeping it over the lid into the crease. (For this look I used "Tan" sheen powder by MAC.) Accentuate the lash line by curling the lashes with a good eyelash curler; this can be the most important thing to make the eye "pop." The secret to a good eyelash curler is the band; I like the one from Kevyn Aucoin. It costs a bit more but it's worth it. Follow with several coats of mascara (after curling, not before). I prefer L'Oréal Voluminous Mascara in Blackest Black. If you want to use false lashes, Ardell mod lash #70 or #57 gives a very natural look.
MOUTH For lips, choose a color that is natural and flattering, not chalky. Try a pink that is slightly warmer than the client's natural lip color. Use a pencil to line and perfect the lip line, then fill in by blending the pencil and gloss together. Try MAC Lip Glass for a super, long-lasting shine.
CHEEK The application should be very soft, almost nonexistent, with no hard contours. I like a blush with a little sheen (not sparkle); this reflects light and gives an overall dewey appearance, with the illusion of almost no makeup on the skin. It's timeless and looks amazing on everyone. Try this when doing a bride. I promise you and your client will be thrilled with the results.