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Beauty Lab
March 1, 2009 By: American Salon Staff American Salon1. MOOD LIGHTING
The Soap & Paper Factory's pure beeswax candles burn for 60 hours and come in delicate fragrances like Orange Blossom, Fig and Rosewood. soapandpaperfactory.com
2. SKIN SOFTENER
Olive oil has been used in beauty products for thousands of years in the Mediterranean. Experience the effects with Jardin de l'Olivier Bath & Shower Cream from Baudelaire. baudelairesoaps.com
3. BATH TIME
Inspired by bathing ceremonies like those practiced in Japan, Morocco and ancient Rome, Abahna offers exotically scented soaps, foams, salts, candles and this Dispersing Bath Oil for a multisensory experience. abahna.co.uk
4. PURE SCENT
Red Flower's new Organic Perfume Concentrates contain pure botanical distillations. Champa is a feminine floral; Ambrette is earthy and musky; and Guaiac is woodsy with a hint of citrus. redflower.com
5. SALT SOAK
Made from 100-percent Sicilian salt, Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom Bath Salts are scented with citrus, neroli, petitgrain and woody notes. ortigia-srl.com
6. BAR NONE
Castelbel's lovely soaps are hand-crafted in Portugal with olive, palm and coconut oils and come in two sizes in fragrances like Lemon & Sage, Honeysuckle and Cucumber. castelbel.com
7. LIP LOVE
Ikove by Florestas offers organic beauty products that contain ingredients from the Brazilian Rain Forest. Buriti Fruit Lip Balm contains wild-harvested murumuru kernel butter, buriti oil and beeswax. ikove.com
8. SPACE SAVER
The PetiteEssence fragrance reed sets from Agraria San Francisco come in concentrated scents like Balsam and Riviera Pear and are perfectly sized for small spaces. agrariahome.com
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Lather, Rinse, Repeat
We took a look at some of the many specialty shampoos on the market today. For the record, fragrance is key.
For most people, the act of shampooing is merely the routine cleansing process associated with the removal of dirt, dandruff and other contaminants from one's hair. But what many don't realize is that the rich, suds-soaking experience we embrace today has an equally rich history.
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For a long time, the shampooing process was more than just the practical stripping of hair buildup. Introduced to Britain in the 19th century from colonial India, the now familiar English word and concept of shampoo is derived from the Hindi term chãmpo, meaning "head massage with hair oil." It wasn't until the 20th century that the meaning of the word shifted from massage to that of washing hair. Now, with an increased attention being drawn to specialty products, shampoo's functionality seems to have stolen the spotlight.
"Today's consumer expects products that are made for him or her," says Marianne Knutson, executive director of shampoo, styling and professional haircare for Aveda. "That's why the industry has moved from general shampoos to products that are highly specialized."
The wide range of specialty shampoos on the market includes color-preserving, scalp-normalizing, volumizing, thermal-protecting, smoothing and strengthening products. The most popular category, however, is moisture-replenishing shampoos, according to Reuben A. Carranza, managing director, Procter & Gamble Professional Care Exclusive Line Organization (North America). He recommends using moisture-rich products that replenish natural hair lipids. "Lipids help retain more water for increased hair softness," he says.
With so many shampoos to choose from, a stylist's understanding of a client's hair type and texture is pertinent. Besides helping clients identify which shampoo works best for their hair needs, hairdressers should also educate them on how to keep their locks healthy and hydrated. "The professional stylist adds priceless value to each bottle," says Nina Kovner, senior vice president for John Paul Mitchell Systems. "Their exceptional knowledge and understanding of their clients' hair types and textures really make a difference in the end."
Besides the functionality of shampoo, another important aspect of hair products is their scent. "Performance and aroma go hand-in-hand," Knutson says. "When someone takes a shower, the aroma transports the user and really gives him or her a wholesome and soothing experience." Companies devote money, resources and research to create signature fragrances. Shampoo aromas, cultivated through essential oils, account for fragrances made with popular notes like rosemary, lavender, bergamot, ylang ylang, chamomile, tangerine and thyme.
Along with providing a defining personality to the shampoo, the aroma can have therapeutic effects. "Aromatherapy has been used for nearly 6,000 years for spiritual, hygienic and ritualistic purposes," says Steven Henley, director of education for Pureology. "Through the incredibly powerful sense of smell, the receptors in your nose communicate with two structures embedded in your brain that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories. Researchers believe that once stimulated, these structures influence our physical and emotional health."
Stylists can understand their clients' hair needs through in-depth consultations. By helping them select personalized products that will both treat and accentuate their hair, salons can offer their clients a truly unique shampoo experience. —JAIMIE HWANG
Scent-sational Aromas
A shampoo's fragrance can trigger powerful memories and emotions.
1) Aveda Dry Remedy features a floral blend of certified-organic oils like palmarosa, ylang ylang and rose germanium (aveda.com); 2) KIS Shampoo is a rich, sulfate-free formula with a fresh pineapple fragrance (kishaircare.com); 3 ) Tela Beauty Organics Melody from Philip Pelusi has a vibrant aroma cultivated from 35 organic ingredients such as apricot, burdock root and Chinese orchid (philippelusi.com); 4) Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Lavender Mint is a stress-relieving service with herbal, soul-soothing ingredients (paulmitchell.com); 5) Pureology NanoWorks' allergen-free fragrance, with notes of jasmine, vanilla, amber and rose, promotes a positive sense of well-being (pureology.com); 6) Aetó Botanica Bamboo and Yucca Fortifying Shampoo purifies the spirit with its natural and refreshing aroma (aetobotanica.com).
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